2. Attach the two remaining right angle clamps to the ends of the ½” bars (see photo above).
3. Put two flange nuts on each screw so that the flange sides are facing each other. Then, put two of the regular nuts at the end of the screw and tighten them against each other to lock them in place.
4. Wrap blue tape around the nuts at the end of one of the screws to insulate it from the bar setup.
5. Place the ¼ 20 screw into the right angle clamp at the end of the ½” bar so that the nuts tighten against each other are what the screw on the right angle clamp is tightened against (this is done so that the threads on the screw are not damaged by the right angle clamp).
6. Wind the wire around one screw a few times between the two flanged nuts. Tighten the flange nuts to help hold the wire around the screw. Repeat this on the second screw, but make sure that the wire is taut between the two screws. You may need to adjust the right angle clamps to keep the wire taut.
7. Plug the two test leads into the power supply and hook the minigrabbers onto the ends of the wire.
3. Do the cutting in a well ventilated area. Carefully hold the styrofoam and pull or push it across the wire to cut out the outlined shape.
4. It is helpful to check that the styrofoam fits inside the acrylic box when finished cutting the outline because you may need to cut it more to get it to fit inside the box. It should be a snug fit.
5. To cut the foam, it is helpful to place the acrylic box on it with the open side down and push down on the box, so that it leaves an imprint on the foam and you can cut it out using scissors.
6. To assemble the catch box, first place the styrofoam in the acrylic box and then place the foam on top of the styrofoam.